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 Post subject: General Electrical / Audio help
Unread postPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:58 am 
Subie Tech

Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 11:06 am
Posts: 216
Location: Utica area
My mr2 has 2 external amps. 1 for the subwoofer, 1 for the front speakers. The front speakers haven't work probably since I bought the car, and this winter's plans are fix the electrical issues.

Anyways, the amp wont power on.

First, there were two "ground" cables, one being the same exact color as the power cable, and was hooked into the power, thus shorting out and constantly blowing fuses. I got that fixed, but the amp still won't power on.

Second I check out the remote switch cable from the HU. I know that connection to the HU is good, since the subwoofer amp works well. That wire used was a bit beat looking, so I replaced that. Still won't power on.

Being baffled, I turned to the interwebz and got the wiring diagram. I did some digging and the previous owner has 20a fuses in it. User manual said it should only have a 15a fuse. Now I already know the power/ground cabling was jacked and shorting out fuses, but if there was a larger than required fuse, what is the probability it fried the whole amp?


Last edited by Madlife on Mon Jan 21, 2013 11:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Sound system noob
Unread postPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 11:00 am 
Subie Tuner
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 7:10 am
Posts: 622
Location: Clay, NY
Definitely possible, if it won't power on I'd be tempted to open it up and see if any components look burnt.



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 Post subject: Re: General Electrical / Audio help
Unread postPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 12:01 pm 
Subie Tech

Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 11:06 am
Posts: 216
Location: Utica area
Thanks, I changed the title, so I don't start an influx of threads with my electrical work. I will crack it open and take a peek. In the meantime, I have the front speakers wired directly to the HU which I may leave for various reasons.

Next up, is the cig lighter which never worked. If I take a multimeter {I think that is what they are called}, and stick a probe in the power portion of the plug, what should I get for a readout? Do I need to stick a probe in the negative too? I have never used one before.


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 Post subject: Re: General Electrical / Audio help
Unread postPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:12 pm 
Subie Tuner
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Joined: Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:54 pm
Posts: 764
Location: syracuse,ny
for the cig lighter you only need a test light if it lights you are generally good. but with a volt meter you should read battery voltage with the engine off although depending on vehicle you may need to have the key on for it to work. make sure you touch the black lead to a good ground and carefully touch the center(all the way inside the socket) if youve checked the fuse and it still doesnt work more than likely its burnt out you can get universal sockets at the part store for under 20 for a good one or around 10 for cheapys. hope this helps good luck.


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 Post subject: Re: General Electrical / Audio help
Unread postPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:19 pm 
Subie Tech

Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 11:06 am
Posts: 216
Location: Utica area
justintypeR wrote:
for the cig lighter you only need a test light if it lights you are generally good. but with a volt meter you should read battery voltage with the engine off although depending on vehicle you may need to have the key on for it to work. make sure you touch the black lead to a good ground and carefully touch the center(all the way inside the socket) if youve checked the fuse and it still doesnt work more than likely its burnt out you can get universal sockets at the part store for under 20 for a good one or around 10 for cheapys. hope this helps good luck.


Thanks. I plan on buying new lighter, but I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if the wiring is jacked up. Once I fix the lighter its on to the lack of power mirrors, and door locks and windows that only work under certain conditions. That is when the fun should really begin.


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 Post subject: Re: General Electrical / Audio help
Unread postPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:19 pm 
Subie Tuner
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Joined: Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:54 pm
Posts: 764
Location: syracuse,ny
quick google search yielded this page that may be helpful not sure what year your mr.2 is but check this out http://www.stephenmason.com/cars/mr2doorwire.html


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 Post subject: Re: General Electrical / Audio help
Unread postPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:48 am 
Subie Tech

Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 11:06 am
Posts: 216
Location: Utica area
justintypeR wrote:
quick google search yielded this page that may be helpful not sure what year your mr.2 is but check this out http://www.stephenmason.com/cars/mr2doorwire.html



Been hoping to dive into this, but due to lack of places to put the snow in my back alley, the car is currently stuck in the garage facing the wrong direction... blah.

In the meantime, I plan on doing my first subwoofer install on the subie. What gauge wire should I use to the battery and how much should I get? I think I will be putting the amp under the driver's seat, sub in the trunk.. Its nothing extreme, just a JL 12" setup from my brother's old car. 300w he thinks it was?

Also, what would be the best way to fasten it to the floor? I don't really want to go drilling random holes in the floor. I was thinking about industrial velcro, but I also want to make sure it does't go flying around during an AutoX.


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 Post subject: Re: General Electrical / Audio help
Unread postPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 1:42 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 18, 2007 11:48 pm
Posts: 2059
Location: Ra-cha-cha, NY
I would use 8 gauge if it's just one amp. I always get extra wire, 12' should be plenty, but I guess it depends where you plan on running the wire through the firewall. As for the mounting, You could get some sort of L bracket from home depot or such and mount it to the seat bolts. That's how the OEM under seat sub mounts. You'll probably have to bend it yourself due to the angles.



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