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 Post subject: Rotbox WRX
Unread postPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 1:37 pm 
Subie Fanatic

Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 6:22 am
Posts: 98
Location: North Syracuse
Just failed inspection in my 02 wagon for the front lower control arms (scheduled recall today), front subframe (the u shaped one, not the engine cradle), and rear subframe.

Image

First, the front looks easy enough sans all the bolts that will probably shear off. Rear looks a bit more tricky. When I do the rear I'd probably do the bushings back there just because. Does anyone know where I can find a good bushing kit? Anything else I should do while I have the rear apart?


Last edited by NickPSI on Fri May 10, 2013 1:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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 Post subject: Re: Rotbox WRX
Unread postPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 1:41 pm 
Major Trou
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Location: Indypolis
On the rear, you'll likely be unable to remove the large transverse bolt in the hubs. Just remove the lateral links from the subframe and leave them on the hubs. On my 06 I had to cut them off (back in 2011?) so an 02 is even worse.

When I did the recall on my 02 Subaru replaced the front U frame as well on their dime.

TIC makes good diff mount bushings. For the other bushings group-n (subaru) has some, not sure who else makes those as they're more involved to replace and few people do.



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 Post subject: Re: Rotbox WRX
Unread postPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 1:44 pm 
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Like this?



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 Post subject: Re: Rotbox WRX
Unread postPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 1:45 pm 
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NickPSI wrote:

Like this?



No wait, its the opposite of that



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 Post subject: Re: Rotbox WRX
Unread postPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 6:43 pm 
Major Trou
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Yes, the opposite. Those big bolts aren't cheap either. Around $20 each iirc.



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 Post subject: Re: Rotbox WRX
Unread postPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 2:37 pm 
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Just as an update I finished this. The rearmost lateral link bolts (the adjustable toe cam'd ones) were frozen to the sleeves in the bushing so I had to replace that as well. Otherwise, not too bad just frustrating at times. Heres a short writeup I did for a post on nasioc:

I just finished this replacement, although with another stock rear subframe due to rot (02, northern wagon)

This can be done as described in the OP. If you attempt to unbolt the lateral links while the subframe is still bolted to the car you will run into clearance issues with your tools via the gas tank and the axle boots

- Remove Wheels (19mm)
- Remove Catback or Axleback section of exhaust whichever is easier
- Unbolt swaybar endlinks from lateral links (12 or 14mm)
- Support diff with a jack
- Unbolt 4 Bolts holding subframe to the chassis (17mm)
- Lower the jack, you can actually remove the jack at this point if youd like
- Remove funky rubber dome cover on the front most later links (screwdriver, cannot rotate out of position as it directs due to rust/rot on northern car)
- Unbolt frontmost lateral links from the subframe (17mm)
- If you are replacing the entire subframe you kinda have to know where the cam'd rearmost bolts line up on the frame, as they are meant to adjust toe. Take a pic and get it as close as you can before alignment.
- Unbolt rear most lateral links (22mm on cam bolt head, 17mm on nut)
- At this point I actually had the cam bolts frozen to the sleeves in the bushings so be prepared for that (replaced bushings and hardware)
- Unbolt stud/nut from the diff itself (probably will have the entire stud come out, no big deal no fluid will run out of it) (deep 17mm socket)
- Rotate the subframe out toward the back, shimmy and shake until its out

- Installation is the reverse of removal, being sure to get those cam'd bolts as close as you can to where they were before you took the car apart.



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